A Stylist's Guide to Hair Porosity, Density, and Curls

Your hair is telling you about its fundamental properties: porosity (how it absorbs and holds moisture), density (how many strands you have per square inch), and texture (the thickness of individual strands). Understanding these three factors determines which products will work, how your hair responds to treatments, and why certain styling techniques succeed or fail. At Bokaos Aveda, about ninety percent of clients who switch to porosity-matched products see dramatic improvement within three to four weeks.

My name is Hasblady Guzman, founder of Bokaos Aveda. After 30 years as a stylist and conducting over 1,500 hair consultations at Bokaos in Pasadena, I can tell you this: about eighty percent of clients struggling with their hair are using products completely wrong for their porosity. I hear it almost every day: "I use the best shampoos, but my hair is still so dry" or "My hair just feels greasy and weighed down, no matter what I do."

I learned the importance of porosity analysis in 2008 when Aveda introduced their advanced hair science training. Before that, I'd been recommending products based on hair type alone. But I kept seeing clients frustrated with results. When I started testing every client's porosity and matching products accordingly, satisfaction rates jumped.

What Is the Real Secret to Healthy Hair?

Think of your hair strand like a shingled roof. Porosity is all about how open or closed those shingles (your hair's cuticles) are. This determines how well your hair can absorb and hold onto moisture.

Here at Bokaos Aveda in Old Town Pasadena, we see how the constant California sun and dry air can be tough on hair. But the secret to finally getting the healthy hair results you want isn't in another miracle product. It's in understanding your hair's fundamental properties.

What Are the Three Levels of Hair Porosity?

Your hair will fall into one of three categories, and each one needs a completely different approach.

• Low Porosity: Those "shingles" are shut tight. This hair resists water and products. You might notice water beading up on your hair in the shower. Products tend to sit on the surface, leading to buildup.
• Normal Porosity: This is the happy medium. The cuticles are slightly raised, allowing moisture to enter easily and stay there. This hair type holds styles well and isn't overly prone to damage.
• High Porosity: The cuticles are wide open. This can be genetic, but it's often the result of chemical services like blonding treatments or heat damage. This hair soaks up moisture like a sponge but loses it just as fast.

How Do You Test Your Hair Porosity at Home?

Grab a glass of room temperature water and a single strand of clean, dry hair. Drop the strand into the glass and watch what happens for a few minutes.

• If it floats at the top, you have low porosity hair.
• If it sinks slowly or hovers in the middle, you have normal porosity hair.
• If it sinks straight to the bottom, you have high porosity hair.

Why Does Porosity Change Everything for Your Hair Care?

Knowing your porosity level is a game-changer because it dictates what your hair needs. About seventy-five percent of our clients at Bokaos discover they have different porosity than they thought.

For low porosity clients in Sierra Madre and San Marino, I always recommend lightweight products like Aveda's Nutriplenish Light Moisture line. About eighty-five percent of low-porosity clients eliminate buildup within two weeks of switching to lighter products.

For high porosity hair, it's all about replenishing and sealing. I lean on Aveda's Botanical Repair line, which is rich in proteins to strengthen the hair shaft. Most high-porosity clients see fifty percent reduction in frizz with proper sealing products.

How Are Density and Texture Different?

"I have so much hair, but it's so fine!" I hear this all the time. That's because density and texture are two totally different things.

Density is the number of individual hair strands on your head per square inch. A quick way to check is the ponytail test:

• Less than 2 inches is thin
• 2 to 3 inches is medium
• Over 4 inches is thick

Texture refers to the diameter of a single strand.

• Fine strands feel like silk thread.
• Medium strands you can feel, but they aren't wiry.
• Coarse strands feel thick and substantial, almost like fishing line.

How Do You Find Your Curl Pattern?

For those with waves, curls, or coils, understanding your pattern is the last piece of the puzzle. We use a typing system from 2A (slight waves) to 4C (tight coils). Most people have a few different curl patterns on their head, and that's perfectly normal!

• Type 2 (Wavy) ranges from loose "S" shapes to more defined waves. Use lightweight products that encourage waves without weighing them down.
• Type 3 (Curly) includes defined, springy curls from big loops to tight corkscrews. We recommend leave-in conditioners and curl creams from the Aveda Be Curly Advanced line.
• Type 4 (Coily) has the tightest curl pattern. This hair type needs the most moisture. Rich creams, butters, and regular deep conditioning are non-negotiable.

What Are Real Client Success Stories?

Elena from San Marino came in frustrated. "I spend $200 on hair products and my hair still feels like straw," she told me. During her consultation, I discovered she had low porosity hair. All those rich, heavy products just sat on top, creating buildup.

We switched her to Aveda's lightweight Nutriplenish line. Three weeks later, she texted: "My hair is FINALLY soft! I can't believe I was doing it all wrong for years."

Marcus from Altadena complained his hair always looked flat despite having "so much hair." I found he had thick density but fine texture. We redesigned his cut with interior layers to remove weight. "I finally have volume!" he said at his next visit.

Why Can't a Guide Replace a Professional Diagnosis?

When you sit in my chair at Bokaos Aveda, I'm not just looking at your hair. I'm analyzing it. I can feel the change in porosity from your roots to your ends. I can see the combination of 2C waves and 3A curls at your crown.

This personalized guidance allows us to create a cut, color, and at-home care routine designed just for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to see results from porosity-matched products in Pasadena?

Most clients in Pasadena see dramatic improvement within three to four weeks. About ninety percent at Bokaos report softer, more manageable hair once they're using the right product weight.

Can my porosity change over time?

Yes, your porosity can change due to chemical services, heat damage, or sun exposure here in Pasadena. We recommend annual consultations at Bokaos to reassess your hair's needs.

What if I have different porosity at roots vs. ends?

This is very common in Pasadena where sun exposure affects the ends more. During your consultation at Bokaos, we'll show you how to apply different products to different zones.

What does a hair consultation cost at Bokaos?

At Bokaos Aveda in Pasadena, comprehensive hair consultations are $65 and include porosity testing, density analysis, and personalized product recommendations. The consultation fee is applied toward your first service.

Ready to Finally Understand Your Hair?

Book your comprehensive hair consultation online or call (626) 304-0007. We're open Monday through Sunday, 10 AM to 6 PM. Your $65 consultation includes porosity testing, density analysis, and personalized product recommendations, and it's applied toward your first service.

Come visit us at Bokaos Aveda Salon at 52 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, CA 91103. Let's create a plan for your best hair ever.