Why Your Hair Color Fades and How to Finally Get It Right

I'm Hasblady Guzman, founder of Bokaos Aveda. After more than 30 years in this industry, and coming from a family of hairstylists, I've seen every hair color wish and worry walk through my salon door.

Last week, my client Seraphina came in looking defeated. She said, "Hasblady, why do my roots show so fast and my color look dull after just a few weeks? I'm spending so much money and it never lasts."

I said, "Seraphina, let me tell you what happened when I first started doing color. It'll explain everything."

The Disaster That Changed How I See Color

This was 1995. I'd been doing hair for five years, and I thought I knew everything about color.

My client's name was Celestine. She came in with dark brown hair showing about two inches of gray at the roots. She said, "I want full gray coverage. Rich brown. No brassiness."

I said, "No problem."

I mixed what I thought was the perfect formula. Medium brown. I applied it all over, roots to ends, like I'd been taught.

When I rinsed her out and dried her hair, it looked terrible. The roots were muddy and dark. The ends were a completely different shade, almost black. And within a week, she called me. She said, "It's already fading. It looks patchy."

I felt sick. I had her come back in. I tried to fix it. I used a color remover on the ends and re-applied fresh color to the roots. It looked better, but not great.

Celestine said, "I appreciate you trying to fix this. But I think I'm going to find someone else."

She left. She never came back.

I went home that night and couldn't sleep. I kept thinking: what did I do wrong?

The next day, I asked the salon owner. She said, "Hasblady, you can't just slap the same color all over. The roots need one thing. The ends need another. And you have to understand the science of how color deposits and fades."

I spent the next year taking every color class I could find. I learned about hair porosity. I learned about underlying pigment. I learned that virgin hair at the root processes differently than previously colored ends. I learned that cheap color with harsh chemicals damages the cuticle, which makes color fade faster.

That failure with Celestine taught me everything. I'll never forget her or the lesson she gave me.

The Difference Between Covering Hair and Truly Coloring It

Most people think hair color just paints the outside of the hair. That's what a lot of cheap box dyes do, which is why they look so flat and wash out unevenly.

Seraphina said to me, "I used box color once. It turned my hair orange."

I said, "That's because box color doesn't understand your hair. Professional permanent color works completely differently."

Permanent color needs to do two things: gently open the hair's outer layer, called the cuticle, and deposit custom-mixed pigment deep inside the hair's core, the cortex. Once that pigment is locked in, it doesn't just wash out.

Aveda's permanent color is 96% naturally derived, using plant-powered ingredients to do this job without the harsh chemicals you often find in other products. It gives you rich, long-lasting results while leaving your hair feeling healthy and shiny.

It's a world away from the aggressive chemicals that blast the cuticle open, causing damage that leads to faster fading.

Your Hair Isn't a Number on a Box

Here's the single biggest reason a store-bought box will never give you salon results: your hair is unique. A box of Medium Ash Brown has no idea what it's working with.

When Seraphina sat in my chair, the first thing I did was a thorough consultation. I said, "I'm not just looking at your current color. I need to analyze several key factors."

She said, "Like what?"

I said, "Your natural level. On a scale of 1, black, to 10, lightest blonde, where does your natural hair sit? You're about a level 6. Your underlying pigment. When you lighten hair, it exposes natural warm tones. We have to account for that to avoid unwanted brassiness. Your hair's history. Is there old color on your ends? Have you had a keratin treatment? This all affects how the new color will process."

Seraphina said, "I had balayage two years ago. It's mostly grown out."

I said, "That changes everything. Those ends are more porous. They'll grab color differently than your virgin roots."

I showed her photos. We talked about the exact tone and dimension she wanted to achieve.

Only after understanding all of this did I start mixing her custom formula. I blended three different shades to create the perfect tone that complemented her skin and delivered natural-looking results.

Seraphina said, "A box can't do that?"

I said, "A box has one formula for everyone. That's a level of personalization a box simply cannot offer."

The Honest Truth About Root Touch-Ups and Gray Hair

Let's be direct about regrowth. Your hair grows about half an inch every month.

Seraphina said, "How much is this going to cost? And how often do I have to come back?"

I said, "For your full color today, it's $165. That includes the custom formula, application, toner, and blowout. If you have gray hair or a color that's significantly different from your natural shade, you will see roots in a few weeks. That's not a sign of bad color. It's a sign of healthy hair growth."

She looked worried. She said, "So I have to pay $165 every few weeks?"

I said, "No. That's where root touch-ups come in. We recommend clients visit us every 4 to 6 weeks for a root touch-up. That service is $95. During this appointment, we apply your custom formula only to the new growth. This avoids overlapping color, which can cause dark bands and damage."

She said, "So over six months, I'd pay $165 once, then $95 four times. That's about $545."

I said, "Exactly. And your color will look fresh and intentional from root to tip the entire time."

Natural-looking gray coverage

Covering gray hair isn't about erasing it with a flat, opaque color that looks obvious.

My client Thessaly has about 60% gray. She came in six months ago and said, "I've been coloring my gray at home with box color. It always looks flat and fake."

I said, "The goal is to blend it seamlessly for a dimensional, natural finish. We use Aveda's vegan formulas to provide 100% gray coverage that has depth and shine."

I gave Thessaly custom gray coverage. When I turned her around to the mirror, she said, "It doesn't look like I colored it. It just looks like my hair is healthier."

That's the difference.

The Journey: What to Expect

Week 2

Seraphina texted me: "My color looks amazing! Everyone at work asked if I did something different."

I said, "How does it feel?"

She said, "I forgot what I looked like with good hair color. This is incredible."

Week 5

Seraphina came in for her first root touch-up. She said, "I can see about a quarter inch of roots. Is that normal?"

I said, "Completely normal. We're going to touch up just the roots. It'll take about 45 minutes."

I did her root touch-up. She said, "That was so much faster than a full color!"

Month 3

Seraphina was at Trader Joe's on Arroyo when her neighbor Evangeline stopped her. Evangeline said, "Your hair looks amazing. Who does your color?"

Seraphina gave her my card.

Two days later, Evangeline called. She said, "My neighbor Seraphina sent me. I want what she has. Her color is gorgeous."

Evangeline came in. I gave her custom color for $165. When I finished, she started crying. She said, "I've been hiding my hair for six months. I was too embarrassed to go anywhere. This changed everything."

Month 6

Seraphina sent me a DM on Instagram. She said, "I just sent you my third referral. Everyone asks about my hair. I've never felt this confident."

How to Protect Your Color from Pasadena's Water

Have you ever noticed your hair feels dry or your color gets brassy faster than it should?

Three weeks after her first color, Seraphina texted me: "My color is getting brassy. Did something go wrong?"

I called her. I said, "You can often thank our local water. The hard water here in the Pasadena area is full of minerals that build up on your hair, dulling your color and blocking moisture."

She said, "What do I do?"

I said, "This is why using professional, color-safe products at home is non-negotiable. It's not an upsell. It's insurance for your color investment."

Aveda's Color Control line is specifically designed to fend off color-stripping particles and protect against UV fading, which is a big deal with our sunny California weather.

Seraphina started using the products I recommended. Two weeks later, she came in and said, "The brassiness is gone. My color looks fresh again."

For an extra layer of protection, especially if your hair is prone to frizz, a keratin treatment can work wonders by sealing the hair cuticle, locking in color, and creating a smooth, reflective surface.

Exploring Color Without the Commitment

Maybe you're not ready for permanent color.

My client Camilla came in and said, "I'm scared of permanent color. Is there something less intense?"

I said, "Perhaps you just want to cancel out some brassy tones or add a boost of shine for a few weeks. That's where glossing and demi-permanent colors come in."

Hair gloss: Think of this as a top coat for your hair. It adds incredible shine, can subtly shift the tone of your existing color, and seals the cuticle. It's a fantastic service to get between full color appointments. It's $75.

Demi-permanent color: This color deposits pigment without lifting your natural shade. It's $115. It's a low-commitment way to try a new tone, enrich your natural color, or blend the first signs of gray. It gradually fades over 20 to 24 shampoos, so there's no harsh line of regrowth.

Camilla got a gloss. She said, "This is perfect! Just enough shine without the commitment."

Ready for Predictable, Beautiful Hair Color?

Creating color you love, and that lasts, is a partnership. It starts with a stylist who understands the art and science of formulation and continues with a maintenance plan that works for your hair and your lifestyle.

Seraphina sent me a selfie last week. Her color looked perfect at month six. The message said, "Best decision I ever made. Thank you for teaching me how color really works."

That's what this is about.

If you're tired of the guesswork, let's talk. Schedule a consultation with me or one of the talented stylists at Bokaos Aveda. We're located right in Old Town at 52 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, CA 91103. Give us a call at (626) 304-0007 or book your appointment online.

We can't wait to help you achieve the hair color you've always wanted.