A Stylist's Guide to Getting Natural, Sun-Kissed Balayage in Pasadena
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One of the most common requests I hear from clients here at Bokaos Aveda is for that effortless, just-back-from-the-beach hair color.
Last month, my client Thessaly came in holding a photo on her phone. She said, "I want this. But I don't want it to look obvious or require constant upkeep."
I looked at the photo. I said, "Thessaly, you're describing balayage."
She said, "Is that different from regular highlights?"
I said, "Completely different. Let me tell you what happened when I first learned this technique."
The Disaster That Taught Me Everything
This was 2009. I'd been doing foil highlights for years, and I thought I could just pick up a brush and start painting balayage. No problem.
My client's name was Evangeline. She came in with dark brown hair and showed me a photo of soft, sun-kissed balayage. She said, "Can you do this?"
I said, "Of course." I was so confident.
I started painting. But I painted it like I was doing foils, saturating every piece from root to tip. When I rinsed her out and dried her hair, it looked terrible. Harsh stripes. Heavy at the roots. Nothing like the soft, natural look she wanted.
Evangeline looked in the mirror. She didn't say anything for a long time. Then she said, "This isn't what I showed you."
I felt sick. She was right. It wasn't.
I said, "Let me fix this. Please. I'll tone it, I'll gloss it, whatever it takes."
She left that day with hair that looked better but still not right. She paid the $185, tipped me anyway, and never came back.
I went home and cried. Then I spent the next six months taking every balayage class I could find. I learned that balayage isn't about saturation. It's about placement. It's about seeing where the sun would naturally lighten the hair and painting only there. It's about leaving depth at the root and concentrating brightness on the surface and ends.
That failure made me the colorist I am today. I'll never forget Evangeline or the lesson she taught me.
Balayage vs. Foils: It's All in the Brushstroke
Let's clear this up first. Traditional foil highlights and balayage are two completely different approaches to lightening hair.
Thessaly asked me, "What's the difference?"
I said, "With foils, we weave sections of hair and saturate them in lightener, folding them into foil packets. This creates a more uniform, defined pattern of color from root to tip. It can be beautiful, but it also creates a distinct line as your hair grows out."
Balayage is different. The name itself comes from a French word meaning to sweep. That's exactly what we do.
We use a brush and a paddle to hand-paint lightener directly onto the surface of your hair in sweeping motions. Instead of a uniform pattern, we place the color where the sun would naturally hit it.
I showed Thessaly examples. I said, "This means we can customize the placement to complement your haircut, accentuate your features, and work with your hair's natural movement."
The result is a soft, blended, dimensional look that grows out beautifully without any harsh regrowth lines. That's why many of our clients can go three to six months between appointments.
Finding Your Perfect Glow: Which Balayage is for You?
Balayage isn't a one-size-fits-all service.
Thessaly said to me, "How do I know which one I need?"
I said, "During your consultation, we'll talk about your goals to decide on the right technique."
Full balayage
This is for you if you want a significant change and an all-over lighter, brighter look.
Thessaly said, "I want to go significantly lighter. I'm ready for a big change. But how much does this cost?"
I said, "For full balayage on your length and thickness, we're looking at $385 for the service. That includes the balayage application, toner, blowout, and style. It'll take about four hours."
She went quiet. She said, "That's more than I expected."
I said, "I know. But let me explain why. We paint highlights throughout every section of your hair, from the nape of your neck to the crown and around your face. This is completely custom work. And because it grows out so beautifully, you won't need to come back for three to six months. If you were doing foil highlights, you'd pay $185 every six weeks. Over six months, that's $555. With balayage, you're actually saving money."
She thought about it. She said, "Okay. Let's do it."
Partial balayage
If you're looking for a more subtle refresh, a partial balayage is perfect.
My client Seraphina came in three months ago and said, "I just want a little brightness around my face. I don't want to spend $400."
I said, "Perfect. Partial balayage is $225. We'll focus the hand-painted pieces around your face and through the top layer of your hair. This is a great way to add pops of brightness right where you see it most."
She got partial balayage. When I finished, she said, "This is exactly what I wanted. Just enough."
Babylights
Think of babylights as a whisper of color.
My client Isadora asked for babylights. I said, "We use a micro-weaving technique to create super-fine, delicate highlights that blend seamlessly with your base color. They give your hair a subtle sparkle. For your hair, babylights would be $285."
Isadora got babylights and said, "This is so subtle and natural. I love it."
No matter the technique, the service always ends with a toner or gloss. This is a crucial step that many people overlook.
Thessaly asked me, "What's toner for?"
I said, "Toning is what neutralizes any unwanted brassiness and gives us that perfect buttery blonde, cool ash, or warm caramel tone you're looking for. It's the final polish that makes the color perfect."
Healthy Hair Comes First: The Aveda Difference
Here in Pasadena, we all know someone who has worried about hair damage from coloring.
Two hours into Thessaly's balayage, she said to me, "I'm getting nervous. What if this damages my hair?"
I stopped. I said, "Thessaly, are you okay? Do you need a break?"
She said, "I'm just scared. My friend got highlights and her hair felt like straw. She had to cut six inches off."
I said, "That's exactly why we exclusively use Aveda color at Bokaos Aveda. It lets us create stunning balayage without compromising the integrity of your hair."
Unlike many harsh chemical lighteners, Aveda's formulas are up to 96% naturally derived and use low-ammonia or even ammonia-free technology. This makes a huge difference.
The color lifts gently, leaving the hair feeling soft and looking incredibly shiny. Aveda's entire color line is also 100% vegan, which aligns with our commitment to using the purest products with the utmost respect for the environment.
I said, "Feel your hair right now."
She touched it. She said, "It doesn't feel damaged."
I said, "And it won't. That's the Aveda difference."
When we finished four hours later, Thessaly felt her hair again. She said, "It feels so soft! I expected it to feel fried."
The Journey: Week by Week
Week 2
Thessaly texted me: "My color is looking brassy. I'm panicking. Did something go wrong?"
I called her immediately. I said, "Thessaly, that's the hard water in Pasadena. That intense Southern California sun we love can cause color to fade, and the hard water in many of our neighborhoods can leave mineral deposits that make hair feel dull and look brassy."
She said, "What do I do?"
I said, "Come in. I'll give you a quick gloss. No charge. And I'm going to set you up with the right products."
She came in two days later. I glossed her hair and gave her Aveda Sun Care products and a clarifying shampoo.
Month 3
Thessaly sent me a selfie. Her color still looked fresh. The message said, "I can't believe it's been three months and my hair still looks this good."
I said, "That's what I promised you. How does it feel?"
She said, "I forgot what I looked like with bad hair. This balayage changed everything."
Month 6
I was at Whole Foods on Arroyo when I heard someone call my name. It was Thessaly. She ran up to me and said, "Look at my hair! Six months and it still looks amazing. My neighbor asked me who does my hair. I gave her your card."
Two weeks later, Thessaly's neighbor Camilla called to book. She said, "Thessaly sent me. I want exactly what she has."
Camilla came in. I gave her full balayage for $385. When I finished, she started crying. She said, "I've been hiding my hair for eight months. I didn't recognize myself anymore. This is who I am."
She sent three more neighbors to me over the next two months.
Keeping Your Color Vibrant in Southern California
Here's my advice for protecting your investment.
Shield your hair from the sun: Just like your skin, your hair needs UV protection. Using a product with UV filters, like Aveda's Sun Care line, is essential. Think of it as sunscreen for your hair.
Fight the hard water buildup: Once a week, use a clarifying shampoo to gently remove mineral buildup from hard water. This will instantly brighten your color and restore softness.
Invest in color-safe products: Using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair is non-negotiable. They are gentler and help prevent your beautiful new tone from washing down the drain.
Thessaly started using everything I recommended. She came back at month eight for her next balayage and said, "My color looked good until last week. That's eight months. I've never had color last that long."
Ready to Find Your Perfect Sun-Kissed Look?
Creating beautiful, believable color is my passion. It's about listening to you, understanding your hair, and using our artistry to give you a look that makes you feel confident and beautiful.
Thessaly sent me a DM on Instagram last week. She said, "I just got stopped at Trader Joe's by someone asking about my hair. I told her about you. She's calling tomorrow."
That's what this is about.
If you've been thinking about balayage, let's talk.
We can explore the best technique for you and create a plan to give you the healthy, dimensional color you've been dreaming of.
Come see us at Bokaos Aveda Salon. We're located right in Old Town at 52 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, CA 91103. Give us a call at (626) 304-0007 or book your consultation online to get started.
I can't wait to meet you.